Some tourist traps are the best fun

I'd like to be able to use Caity and Hugh as the excuse for doing tacky, touristy stuff on holidays. But even if that was true once, they are way too old to be scapegoats any more. The fact is, some of the tackiest, touristy stuff we do in new places is also really enjoyable. Why? Well, its focussed on what's good and distinctive about the place, it's delivered by practiced (ok sometimes jaundiced) folk and no one takes it too seriously. So it can be great. Sometimes, of course, it can also be excruciating. We've had one of each so far.....let me start with the excruciating!

It is New Years Day, a public holiday in Suzhou, a little town of 4 million. We are to ride rickshaws through the old town, a watery wonderland dubbed the 'Venice of the east' (yes, I know, there are quite a few Venices of the east. Just squint a little). The concept is good. Unfortunately, every Chinese tourist within 100 km is quietly walking the narrow streets of old Suzhou as our groaning, puffing convoy of clapped out rickshaws, overflowing with wide-beamed westerners ( I shall pay for this acute observation), plunge into the throng. With our panting peddlers hurling abuse at the bemused pedestrians, we make painfully slow progress, wedging people against houses and each other as we grind past. We are too embarrassed to even look at, let alone enjoy, the spectacle of old Suzhou. Indeed, we are the spectacle! We are the tourist attraction!

On the same day, we had the opposite experience. We visited Tongli water town, a beautiful old village with delightful canals, cobbled paths, ancient buildings and World Heritage listed gardens. There were Chinese tourists about, but no crowds. We were a pale-faced novelty, especially the flaxen haired women, who were stopped and photographed alongside giggling Chinese. Even my brother was asked for photos. I think they thought he was Rolf Harris, Hugh thinks Rex Hunt. Rich is surprisingly put out by both suggestions.

It too, is dubbed 'Venice of the East'! And we got into a boat that was remarkably reminiscent of a gondola, in a Chinese sort of way and were paddled around an exquisitely beautiful village by our Chinese gondolier. She (yes, never in Venice!) even had to duck under some stone bridges. Along the way, we watched a woman slaughter and pluck a chicken at the water's edge, saw fishing cormorants in action and waved and ni hao'd lots of people on the bank. Was it touristy? In the extreme. Was it a delight? You bet!